Fear of heights? Ha! Not you. You're part mountain goat, part Spiderman. You're a rock climber, and you live for the thrill of looking back down to see how far you've climbed. You may be the type who enjoys the relative safety of an indoor rock climbing wall. Or you may be a more adventurous type who takes it outside. There are those who love bouldering on small faces, and others who feel most alive when they're hanging off of a thousand foot drop. Whatever kind of rock climbing you enjoy, you've probably got climbing buddies who totally get it. They're just as addicted to the thrill of scaling dizzying heights as you are. But you've also probably got ground-bound friends who think you're crazy. To them, "high" is standing on a kitchen stool.

If you're tired of having your sanity questioned by your friends and family, you can solve that problem by what you wear. Get a set of custom rock climbing t-shirts to answer all those questions. Design a t-shirt with any graphic or message you wish to let everyone know about the sport you love. Climbing's one of those sports you either "get" or you don't. By wearing these t-shirts you can let everyone know why climbing's great and why you'll never give it up even if it's a little unconventional.

Need some inspiration? What could be better than having a picture of yourself scaling a rock wall emblazoned on your t-shirt? If you have pictures of yourself climbing, they can be transferred to a t-shirt. This option is awesome because you can select any picture you want. It could be a picture of you high on the wall. It could be a picture of you in a precarious position. It could even be a picture of you doing an excellent move to advance on the rock.

Not only can you select any picture you want but you also have a number of options for the style of the t-shirt. Whether you prefer a form fitting t-shirt, an oversized t-shirt or t-shirts with all different necklines you don't have to worry about finding a perfect t-shirt. You simply select a t-shirt in the size and style you like and the picture for your shirt. Then go online to create the shirt of your dreams.

Another popular option for a rock climbing t-shirt is to combine images with text. A picture of a popular mountain with the message, "See you at the top," is just one example. Another great idea is to create a t-shirt with the nuts used to anchor the climber and include a caption such as, "Yeah, I'm nuts for climbing." All of these t-shirt ideas are great for climbers like you who are tired of explaining to friends and family members why you like climbing. When you wear your love for the sport on your sleeve, or your chest in this case, they are much more likely to respect your love for the sport.

Free rock climbing is usually considered an extreme sport, because you are climbing a mountain without any safety harnesses, and if you fall you can be seriously injured or killed. If you combine this with extreme BASE jumping, then you might be one of the most extreme people to walk the earth. As insane as these things sound, there are actually quite a few people that do this very thing. However you should not try this at home. The people that perform these tremendous feats are trained professionals with many years of experience.

Free rock climbing is a sport that pits a person against a mountain or other rock face. These people do not use any safety equipment or any other rock climbing tools to help them ascend to the top. Usually the only thing that these rock climbers take with them is some chalk to allow their hands to grip the rock surface better. Some of the best of these climbers can climb walls that actually go upside down. I am amazed at the abilities that these rock climbers possess. The rock climbing techniques that they have learned over the years are amazing. These free rock climbers are very interesting, but there is a very small group of these guys that also BASE jump once they have reached the apex of their climb.

These BASE jumpers will free climb up to a cliff and then enjoy the scenery for a short time before they jump off and float to the bottom. Many people call these people extreme adrenaline junkies, and they are probably right, but I still am amazed at what they can do. To me the most beautiful thing about what these people do is challenge nature with very little manmade equipment to give them an edge. They walk up to a cliff and then fight their way to the top, just to jump off and reach the bottom within a minute or so. It might sound like a complete waste of time, but I am sure they feel completely free when they can climb a mountain and then fly off of it like a bird back to the ground. One of these days I would love to have the opportunity to give something like this a try.

Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys - Route Beta

Shuksan from Lake Ann

The Fisher Chimneys is a fun way to climb the imposing north side of Mt. Shuksan, and is one of our more popular guided Mt. Shuksan climbs at the Northwest Mountain School.  While a step up in route-finding and technical difficulties from the standard south side Sulphide route, the Chimneys are very doable for strong hikers.  It’s important to note that the USGS topo has several errors:  The Fisher Chimneys are misplaced, Winnie’s Slide is misplaced (it’s closer to the U in Upper Curtis Glacier), and Hell’s Highway is mislabeled as The Hourglass.

The first stop on a trip on the north side of Shuksan is the ranger station in Glacier, WA for backcountry permits and recent route condition information.  From there keep heading up the road, past the ski area to the Ann Lake trailhead.  On good trail make the trek to Anne Lake, about 5 miles.  Heartbreakingly, you will lose about 800 feet of elevation from the trailhead to a stream before heading up to the lake.  Since you will retrace your steps on the way back, it’s uphill to the car.

From Ann Lake, contour to the left on good trail, then go up switchbacks, ending heading towards the Lower Curtis Glacier.  This is a common place to get lost and head onto the Lower Curtis.  Instead, look for a vague trail heading through rock slabs on the above you, at the first reasonable break in the cliffband.  Follow this class 3 ledge system up to another good trail, which will lead you to a talus field. 

The trail heads up the cleft above this snow patch.  Don't get suckered on to the Lower Curtis Glacier

Go straight across this talus slope, resisting the temptation to gain or lose elevation.  There are several faint trails and occasional cairns scattered across this slope.  At the far end of the slope, keep an eye out for spraypainted arrows on a rock buttress pointing the way.  Yes, follow the arrows, they’ll take you where you want to go.

The talus slope.  The Fisher Chimneys start near the snow patch in the center of the photo.

Continue up trail interspersed with short sections of climbing, ranging from 4^th class to easy 5^th, heading mostly up and to climber’s right.  Keep an eye out for the “stairway” pitches, easily recognized as white troughs with stair step sized holds.  When in doubt, look for crampon scratches in the rock to point the way.  

Start of the Fisher Chimneys

Above the stair way pitches, follow trail to snow, then head up again to the lower camp, below the 40 degree snow slope that is Winnie’s Slide.  This camp has many bivy/tent spots, and occasionally running or still water in a pool slightly below camp.  Another option is to ascend Winnie’s Slide to the higher camp, which generally has running water and several tent spots.

Winnie's Slide

From the higher camp, climb either steep snow, or in late season, hard ice up to a bench.  It’s prudent to go into glacier mode here, as you head straight up, winding your way around crevasses, then to the south, climbers right, under features like the Labor Day route (5.9 dihedral) and the Hourglass (ice dribble) towards Hell’s Highway, the obvious steep and crevassed passage to the Sulphide Glacier above.  Be careful after climbing the short steep snow slope of Hell’s Highway, the western edge of the Sulphide is often hollow and crevasses may be covered by snow. 

Shuksan's Hell's Highway is the sunlit slope.

After attaining the Sulphide, the route is identical to the standard route, with two main options:  The SE Ridge and the Gulley.

The Shuksan summit pyramid..  The SE Ridge is the sun/shade line, the gulley is just left of it.

The ridge is aesthetic and solid, with difficulties of about 5.4 and a sold horn to belay off after every 30 meters of fifth class.  These sections are interspersed with short walking sections.

The gulley is relatively solid, but looser than the ridge, and is mostly 3^rd and 4^th class.  In early season it can be a snow climb.  Rappel/belay stations are often abundant in the gulley.

A view down most of the SE ridge of Shuksan

From the summit, rappel and/or downclimb the gulley (or ridge, although this is not recommended), then reverse your route back to the trailhead.  Beware the sting in the tail, the final uphill hike to the car.    For more information feel free to call the Northwest Mountain School at 509-548-5823 or drop us an e-mail.

Zermatt Alpine Climbing Trip Report, August 6 - 12, 2012

Atop the Weismies, 4017m (13,179 ft), with Monta Rosa beyond.

Mason and Scott came over to the Alps with an open itinerary to climb for 7 days in the Zermatt area. They already had a foundation in glacier mountaineering and rock climbing so we aimed for climbs that combined the best of both and then some; glacier approaches to alpine rock climbing with snowy slopes and ridges leading back down to comfortable huts.

The bulk of our trip was spent on what is known as the Spaghetti Traverse, a route that links several 4000 meter peaks along the Swiss-Italian border over several days and culminates in crossing Monte Rosa, Switzerland's highest peak.

Day 1.

Checking in with the locals on the way to the Almageller hut.

Dark clouds covered the mountains so our chances of doing any climbing were slim. We decided to use the day to approach a hut that would let us summit the Weissmeis, 4017m (13,179 ft) the next day. From Zermatt we used a train and bus to access the Saas valley. We spent the morning hiking 4000 ft. up the beautiful Almagellalp arriving at the hut just as heavy rain started.

Clouds lift over the Almageller hut, 2894m (9495 ft).

Originally we had planned to climb a few pitches at the hut's near-by crag, the Dri Hornli. But, today, it was not so dry. Instead we relaxed inside, caught up on sleep and sampled the hut's homemade pie. Before dinner the clouds broke and everyone was outside to take in the views of the surrounding mountains.

Day 2.

Mason and Scott below the SE Ridge of the Weissmies.

We woke to a clear morning. Breakfast time of 4am and out the door at 5am. This would be our schedule for the week. The whole hut (60 people on this day) gets up and gets going together so the mornings are a bit of controlled chaos. Once on the trail things settle out and groups separate so it doesn't feel to crowded. Our plan was to climb the SE Ridge of the Weissmies, then descend the Thrift glacier on the NW side thus making a traverse of the mountain and allowing us to descend to the valley via gondola.
From the hut a trail leads up to the low point of the ridge,  Zwischbergen Pass 3268m (10722 ft). The route drops off the ridge to avoid some small towers, crosses some snow then regains the ridge as it steepens towards the summit.

Scrambling on the Weissmies SE Ridge.

Once back on the ridge we had 1500 ft. of terrific, exposed but not very difficult scrambling on great rock. Around 3900m (12,800 ft) the ridge changes to snow so we donned crampons and followed a sinewy snow ridge to the summit.

Near the summit of the Weissmeis.

Soon we were on the summit and could enjoy views of Monte Rosa, the Mischabell group, the Berner Oberland and beyond.

Atop the Weismies, 4017m (13,179 ft), with Monta Rosa beyond.

We could also see our descent route leading back to the NW, down the Thrift glacier and over to the Hosaas gondola that would take us down to the valley far below.

Descending the West Ridge of the Weissmies.

The glacier was in good shape with and nice track to follow.

Continuing down the Weissmies. The Hosaas gondola station can be seen between Mason and Scott.

One of the last sections had some hanging seracs above, but moving quickly we were through this section in good time.

Boarding the Hosaas gondola for the 1540m (5050 ft) ride back down to the Saas valley. The Thrift glacier and the Weissmies behind.

We arrived at the gondola station early enough to stop in at the nearby restaurant's sunny terrace for a roesti and beer. These were consumed with a view of steep NW face of the Weissmies. Once down the gondola we took the bus and train back around to Zermatt. The weather ahead was looking splitter so we got ready for spending the next 5 days going hut to hut on the Spaghetti Traverse.

Day 3.

Morning traffic in Zermatt.

After a stop at the bakery, we headed for the lifts. One gondola ride would take us from Zermatt at 1620m (5,250 ft) up to Trockner Steg at 2939m (9640 ft).

On the gondola to Trockner Steg, with excellent views.

Our next bump is by aerial tram to the Kleine Matterhorn at 3800m (12470 ft). We walk out the door and we're on the Breithorn glacier plateau headed for the East Ridge of the Breithorn's central summit.

Taking a break on the Breithorn with Monte Rosa behind.

The ridge is a stellar alpine rock climb often done as a day trip because the lift access is so close. It's exposed positions make for great photo ops. On this day there was a little snow from the previous storm, but not so much we couldn't climb it crampon free.

Climbing on the east ridge of Breithorn's central summit.

Along the length of the ridge the views and exposure are impressive. We had a front row seat looking at all the peaks of the Zermatt area, south into Italy and north into Switzerland. To each side the ridge drops away to the glaciers below. After several hours of climbing we reached the top, the central summit of the Breithorn, 4159m (13,645 ft). The celebration of our second 4000m peak was short; the afternoon was getting on and it was decided we needed to make tracks if we were going to catch dinner at the hut.

On the way to the Ayas hut. The route we climbed runs right to left on the rocky ridge on the far skyline, then down the snowy face to the left.

This would be our latest day out and we could really feel the heat while crossing the glacier. Although a little uncomfortable we trudged on. Missing dinner is not an option.

Relaxing on the terrace at the Ayas hut.

After negotiating some interesting route finding down the glacier, we made it to the hut with time to spare. The Ayas hut, at 3425m (11,240 ft), would be our lodging tonight. The very welcoming staff put us in the second wave of dinner. We hung out on the terrace and ate one of the several cans of Pringles that Mason was packing for just such an occasion.

Day 4.

Climbing on Pollux with installed fixed ropes.

We hit the glacier at 5am and headed back up the glacier. The choice before us today was to either climb 2700 feet up and over Castor and head to the Quintino Sella hut early, or tack on the 1100 foot climb of Pollux first, then climb over Castor and then down to the hut. The guys were game for both, and everyone agreed it was well worth the extra effort. The SE Ridge of Pollux starts with easy scrambling then attacks a couple pitches of steep rock. The difficult section is "improved" with thick gym-style ropes that make the climbing very accessible.

Mason and Mary on Pollux.

After the steep rock, the climb takes a snow arete to the summit. We had climbed all the rock with our crampons on so all we had to do was grab our ice axes and head up.

On the summit of Pollux, 4092m (13,425 ft).

The climb of Pollux got high marks. It was our 3rd 4000m of the trip. We descended our climbing route crossed a bit of glacier and started up Castor, a climb we had to make to reach our next hut.

Descending the East Ridge of Castor.

A good track led us 1200 feet up to the summit of Castor, 4223m (13,864 ft), 4000m peak number 4 (our 2nd for the day.) The real treat of Castor is descending the narrow East Ridge as it snakes its way up and down, dropping steeply to each side.

Rifugio Quintino Sella with Lyskamm behind on the right.

From the top of Castor it was only a couple hours down to the Quintino Sella hut where would stay for the night at 3585m (11760 ft). Arriving early in the afternoon we had plenty of time lay boots and gloves in the sun to dry, have a sandwich and a beer, and turn in for good nap.

Arguing rules.

With some time before dinner, Mason found an old Italian version of Monopoli. Between the three of us, an iPod Italian dictionary and some creativity we think we figured it out pretty good. Unfortunately, dinner was served before I was able to crush them both.

Day 5.

Heading towards Lyskamm. Il Naso is the bump on the right, summit on the left.

With another early start we set off towards the hulking mass of Lyskamm, at 4527m (14,852 ft) it is the 8th highest peak in the Alps.
Our route would take us up the icy bump called Il Naso and then down to a small saddle. From there it would be 1000 ft of moderate rock, with a bit of snow, up to the summit ridge. In the pic above, we would climb all the visible skyline from right to left.

Many climbers on the Ludwigshoehe (l) and the Corno Nero (r).

Moving up Il Naso included a few pitches of 50˚ ice to gain easier snow above. Walking the crest we could look out across the eastern Lys glacier where dozens of climbers could be seen crossing glaciers and bagging peaks. This area has relatively easy lift and hut access. On Lyskamm, meanwhile, we had the route to ourselves.

On the South Ridge of Lyskamm.

We switched back into rock mode and made our way up the ridge linking easy scrambling and exposed steeper moves. Once again we climbed up with crampons on, making it easy to continue through snow patches.

On summit of Lyskamm with the Dufourspitze behind.

Coming over the top of the ridge we could see down over 2000 ft down the North Face to the Grenz glacier. We had our fifth 4000m peak of the week. After some pictures and a snack we took a hard right and began our descent of the East Ridge.

Descending the East Ridge of Lyskamm

This exposed and airy fin of snow requires careful footing and lots of concentration. A good track and some secure belays brought us off the ridge and onto the Lys glacier.

Rifugio Città di Mantova, at 3498m (11,476 ft).

We linked up the to the busy routes across the glacier and headed down to the Mantova hut for the night. On arrival at any of the Italian huts we were given the choice of soup or pasta for our starter course. Somewhere around 7pm dinner would be served...

Pasta course (or soup...)

Meat and vegetable or potato course.

Dessert course.

Hence the name... "Spaghetti Traverse".


Day 6.

Signalkuppe (l) and Parrotspitze (r). The Margherita hut is the small black square top left.

After 5 days of continuous climbing we decided on an easy-ish day. All we would need to do is climb 3500 ft up the glacier to the top of Signalkuppe, 4559m (14,957 ft). This be our 6th 4000m peak. At the top is the Margherita hut, the highest hut in the Alps and our lodging for the night.

Day 7.

Capanna Regina Margherita, 4559m (14,957 ft) at dawn.

Our final day would be a long one. From the hut we would climb almost 1000 ft up and over the Dufourspitze, the highest of Monte Rosa's summits, the highest point in Switzerland and the second highest summit in the Alps. Then we would then make the 7000 ft descent down to the Gorner glacier. After crossing the glacier a final 1000 ft hike up would bring us to the stop where we could catch a train back down into Zermatt.

Climbing up the Zumsteinspitze on a cold morning. The Margherita hut on the peak behind.

From the hut we descended a bit then climbed up over the small peak of the Zumsteinspitze. It was the coldest morning of the trip and we had all of our layers on, including puffies under shell jackets. After descending the ridge to the saddle, we climbed the SE Ridge of the Dufourspitze. This was yet another spectacular rock ridge of moderate difficulty and great views. Unfortunately this was where my camera malfunctioned and would not recover before the trip was over. Undaunted, we carried on to the summit of the Dufourspitze, 4634m (15203 ft). 

We claimed our 7th 4000 meter summit of the trip and started our descent. We retraced our route on the summit ridge to where fixed ropes descend the north side of the Dufourspitze. Belaying down these we were soon on the Monte Rosa glacier. A few hours of walking down the glacier and over the talus and slabs brought us to the Monte Rosa hut at 2795m (9170 ft). 

After a quick soda on the terrace we continued down the trail which brought us to the icy expanse of the Gorner glacier. Free of the winter snows the glacier was bare ice but we were able to easily cross its mile wide breadth. A couple ladders up a cliff brought us to the trail which would slowly gain the ridge and put us at the train stop. 

The final view walking out was across the Gorner glacier and most of the peaks we had enchained on the Spaghetti Traverse: the Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Lyskamm and the Dufourspitze. We had a couple miles to soak in the views before a final jog up the hill got us onto the train back to town. Soon we were in Zermatt and headed for hot showers and a big dinner.

This trip worked out in part because we scored great weather and climbing conditions but largely because Mason and Scott showed up with solid climbing fundamentals, a excellent level of fitness and an open mind to chose the climbs that felt appropriate to the climbers and the conditions. The Zermatt area has many alpine climbing options to chose from; something for everyone really.

If you would like beta for the Spaghetti Traverse, climbing in Zermatt, or climbing Monte Rosa, feel free to call our office at 509-548-5823. For more details on this trip visit our Zermatt Climbing Guides page.

Glacier Peak Trip Report ~ August 2012

Glacier Peak from the south

Summer 2012 has been a good one for our Glacier Peak Climbs as the approach road has been repaired, shaving 14 miles off the round trip, and making it possible to comfortably do the route in 3-4 days.  The increased climber activity has evidently also decreased break-ins at the trailhead, a nice bonus.  

The normal route up Glacier Peak has shifted to the southern route up the White Chuck and Cool glaciers, beginning at the North Fork of the Sauk River trailhead, 17 miles from Darrington, WA.  It's important to register your climb at the USFS ranger station in Darrington, this registration is free and can be done at any hour.  The trailhead parking does require a NW Forest Pass or interagency access pass. 

From the trailhead follow trail 649 for 5.4 miles or around 3 hours, gaining only about 1000 feet, to the Mackinaw Shelter. This small lean-to and the surrounding area is the first opportunity to camp, although unless you got a late start it's best to push on.  From the shelter the trail heads steeply upward, gaining 3000 feet in 2.8 miles, about 2 hours, to a juncture with the PCT.  

There are three options here; 1) head east to a camping area 0.7 miles, about 30 minutes, away at White Pass.  This spot has water, campsites, a composting toilet, mosquitoes and often crowds.  2)  Head 1.7 miles, about an hour, west to Red Pass.  This spot has limited space for camping, and the water source is a short walk, but far fewer bugs and crowds.  3) A third option is to head west about 0.25 mile, 15 minutes, to an series of dirt patches and game trail heading straight up the hill north for about 500 vertical feet to a pass, then down 1000 feet north, on snow, to the White Chuck basin, then northeast up heather, rock and snow to a small valley where camping is possible, at about 6400 feet.  This area is about 6 or 7 hours from the trailhead, and you'll have to reach it eventually no matter where you camp.  

If you're planning on a three day ascent this should be your camp; plan on a 12-14 hour round trip.  For a four day trip, from either Red or White Pass, continue past this area north to a col between the White Chuck and Suiattle Glaciers, at 7300 feet.  Gaining this col can be done by traveling in the valley floor in early season, or on the ridges east of the valley in late season as the floor becomes a river.  The col is a very nice, if exposed, campsite with running water and small rock walls generally pre-built.  This will be your high camp for a four day ascent, count on 5-6 hours of hiking to get here from Red or White pass.  The route up the peak from high camp begins up the small slope to the west (left), then slightly downhill to gain the Gerdine Ridge heading north toward Dissapointment Peak.  

Glacier Peak at dawn.  The prominent ridge in the foreground is the initial travel route from high camp.

This ridge is often dry, with a trail on it.  As the ridge becomes more narrow and rocky, at somewhere around 8400 feet, it will become necessary to exit to the east onto snow, and begin normal glacier travel methods.  Continue up snow, angling northeast, to an icefall on the ridge to the east, at about 9200 feet.  There is often a track set directly under the pumice cliffs that comprise Disappointment Peak.  These cliffs often produce dangerous rockfall, so a lower track through the glacier may be prudent.  Navigate the icefall carefully, and immediately head north (left) up a steeper slope to a bench which is followed to another dirt ridge.  

On the glacier east of the ridge.

This ridge, which often has a trail, heads 1000 vertical feet up to the summit.  The ridge is rather loose, and it is faster to travel on any snow remaining, but it is generally possible to stay on dry ground up to the summit.  There is a small bivy site just below the summit, with late-day running water often available from summit snows. Descend the way you ascended; for a three day ascent, back to your first night's camp.  For a four day ascent you'll need to return to the col, pack up and head out to Red or White pass, or sleep another night at the col and endure an 8-10 hour day to hike out.

The summit of Glacier Peak!

For more information on Guided Glacier Peak Climbs, contact the Northwest Mountain School at 509-548-5823.

Aconcagua Climbing Tips ~ Focus, Summit, Enjoy

As the Pacific Northwest hits the longest, darkest days of late December and early January I often find myself leading groups on climbing Expeditions to Aconcagua (22,841' - 6,962 m) in Argentina.  As most climbers know this is the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and one of the Seven Summits.  Because of this status it is a much sought after summit and each season it attracts close to 4000 people looking to reach the top.  

I did my first Aconcagua trip in 1993 on the Plaza Argentina side where we climbed via the False Polish Glacier route.  Back then there was almost no official presence on that side of the mountain, there were still cows in the Vacas Valley, and the place had a very remote feel to it.  These days I still guide via the relatively less travelled Vacas/Plaza Argentina side, but times have changed and basecamp at Plaza Argentina is now a busy place with helicopters coming and going, an official park service ranger station, porters looking to carry loads, and outfitters offering everything from satellite phone and internet service to hot meals, hot showers, and even beds if you are willing to pay for it.

As a guide, one of the things that always amazes me is how often people make the same mistakes each season in planning and executing their expeditions.  I am hoping this article helps you with your trip and gives you some ideas for how to have a great trip with a high chance of success.  I will confess at the beginning that guides tend to go in for many things that cost money and as a result following these directions will likely add to the cost of your trip.  I will try to focus on tips that increase your chance of success and avoid suggestions that simply add to the cost of your trip. 

Tip #1: Cross train and lose weight if needed before the climb: People call us often looking for a training program that will work well for Aconcagua.  Often what they are looking for is a routine that they can do each day indoors for an hour that will get them ready.  In my experience this often does not work well or yield the type of fitness they are looking for.  The best training for climbing is walking uphill with a pack.  If you can't do this, then the next best is to mix up endurance training such as biking or even swimming with higher intensity activities.  I tried Cross fit and thought it was good when mixed with my endurance activities as it built my core strength and always focused on the things I was not good at, thus never becoming routine.  I often tell my clients that doing hard manual labor is the closest thing they can get to expedition climbing and they laugh, but I am serious.  

Perhaps the biggest problem for many climbers is that they are simply over weight.  Standards for fitness seem to be sliding over time and we often encounter clients who believe they are fit, but are in fact 20-30 pounds or more overweight.  This leads to conversations about needing more water, tending to run hot, needing to go slow, etc.  This makes sense as they are essentially climbing in a heavy wetsuit of extra weight that puts them at a disadvantage right from the get go.  I would say that losing weight before a trip is the one thing that my average customers could do that would have the greatest effect on the outcome of their trip.  Exercise, proper nutrition, and maintaining the right caloric balance are dull things indeed, but are the backbone to a successful climb of any mountain.

Tip #2: Take time to acclimate:  Most parties simply get in too big a hurry to move higher on the mountain.  The total distance covered on the climb is relatively short, so if you are going the right speed you will feel like you are going too slow.  Most climbers tend to be obsessive trainers, which is great during preparation, but a fast pace will hose most on the mountain.  To properly acclimate you should average about 1000' (300 meters) of elevation gain per day.  If we move any faster than this we have tend to have people develop altitude illnesses and if we move at this rate or slower we tend to not have issues.  On occasion weather forces our hand and we bump thing up a day, but usually at the expense of some discomfort or lower summit numbers.  Oddly a slower itinerary tends to lead to a faster trip as you can sidestep having to move sick people down, which will always set you back. 

With this in mind we use the following schedule for moving up the mountain:

• Day 1: Arrive in Mendoza in afternoon or early evening. 
• Day 2: Drive to Penitentes (8200') pack mule loads, and spend night.
• Day 3: Drive to Vacas Valley (7,600'), hike to La Lena (8,850'). 
• Day 4: Hike to Casa Piedra (10,500')
• Day 5: Hike up Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina BC (13,800') 
• Day 6: Rest Day at base camp.
• Day 7: Carry to Camp 1 (16,200') & return to base camp.
• Day 8: Rest Day at Base camp.
• Day 9: Move to Camp 1.
• Day 10: Carry to Camp 2 (18,200') & return to Camp 1. 
• Day 11: Rest at Camp 1.
• Day 12: Move to Camp 2.
• Day 13: Move to Camp 3 (19,600')
• Day 14: Possible Summit Day
• Day 15: Possible Summit Day
• Day 16: Possible Summit Day
• Day 17: Descend to Plaza Mulas on Ruta Normal
• Day 18: Complete hike out and return to Mendoza.
• Day 19: Extra Day
• Day 20: Return flight to your home country

Tip #3: Use the Mules:  From time to time we bump into folks that are humping all their gear into basecamp in an effort to make the experience more "pure."  This always strikes me as a bit odd as they usually used planes to get to Argentina, buses to get to the trailhead, etc.  Once in a blue moon we see folks carry their own gear in and then do well on the mountain, but more often than not the hardship of the hike in leads to blisters, disorganization, or exhaustion early on, which plagues them for the whole trip.  Style does matter, but skipping the mules to basecamp seems somehow irrelevant when folks are "soloing" a route alongside other climbers.

Tip #4: Use a local outfitter or guide service that uses one:  There are many great Argentine outfitters and I believe that having a local partner will radically ease your logistical burden and at least get you to and from the base camps in the best possible health with the fewest mistakes.  We use Grajales Expeditions and have worked with them since 1993.  The business is run by Fernando Grajales and was started by his father, whom I also had the pleasure of working with.  The main things that we have Grajales help us with are airport pickups, the permit process in Mendoza, transportation to/from Mendoza and Penitentes, to/from Penitentes and the trailheads, and mules to carry loads to/from the base camps.  Many climbers are very leery of trusting the locals and you can trust these guys.  If things go sideways on the mountain or enroute to/from the mountain they will have your back and they are way better at dealing with these types of logistics than a non-local.  We do not have them cook for us at basecamp simply because it is expensive, but the food is great.  I do often rent a tent from them for use at basecamp as my groups prefer to sit in a chair, out of the dust and wind. 

Tip #5: Avoid all Freeze-dried Food: When people end their trip early it is often due to dreams of hot showers, thick steaks, and fresh OJ.  Aconcagua is one place where you can afford to take good food to basecamp.  We usually send some of our gear to Argentina in a cooler and then use the cooler to transport fresh veggies, bread, meat, and even eggs to basecamp.  Packing these items is an art as things often get shaken beyond recognition on the trip in, but with careful buying and careful packing you can get some of these items to basecamp intact.  Your outfitter will often loan or rent you a plastic barrel for transporting items.  Mule loads are calculated by weight, so you can generally afford the small additional weight of a small barrel stuffed with great food.  Above base camp we strive to prepare foods that we would eat at home as a good meal does wonders for your strength and motivation.  Current favorites are rice curries, mac-n-cheese, burritos, quesadillas, and quick cooking pastas.  Up really high it is hard to get pasta to cook completely, so we tend to eat this at the lower camps and focus on rice or tortilla based meals at the highest camps.  Freeze-dried always provides the amusing game of name that dinner as climber gas from poorly rehydrated dehydrated meals overtakes the tent.  

Tip #6: Get Someone back home to send weather forecasts: As guides we feel obligated to carry satellite phones and we primarily use the text feature to receive twice daily weather forecasts from our office in Washington State.  I have the person doing the forecast focus on wind speed and direction and we start getting these forecasts early in the trip so that we can get a sense of which models are working best and how accurate the forecast is.  I have had many trips here and on Denali where we have sat or gone based on wind speed forecast and had wildly better results than groups that did not have some sort of forecast.  We also sometimes hire a meteorologist to do custom forecasts for our groups. 

• Snowforecast.com for Aconcagua
• Mountain-forecast.com for Aconcagua (same model w/ more options.)

Tip #7: Keep it simple.  The rise of services on Aconcagua has tricked many into thinking that most of the trip will be easy and they can endure the brief days of discomfort at high camp and above.  This is a false conclusion.  All of these things can make the lower mountain much easier and much more comfortable, but it puts you that much farther from the reality of the cold, difficult summit day that remains unchanged.  At basecamp and subsequent camps we favor keeping the infrastructure to a minimum and prefer to carry our own loads as it prepares us mentally and physically for the summit day, which is always a challenge.  I prefer to live like I am on an expedition and thus avoid most of the luxuries of basecamp until my trip is over.  A simple camp is lighter, there is less to deal with, and I see no evidence that it improves people's performance up high.  In fact, I think having everything in place almost makes it harder for people to wrap their heads around the difficulties on the summit climb.

Tip #8: Pack light:  Much of this is covered in a post I did called Aconcagua Packing Tips, but the basics are as follows:

• Take the necessities and leave the rest:  A necessity is a need.  You need a sleeping bag, so bring a nice, light (-20F) one with a compression sack.  You need warm boots, you need a headlamp.  You do not need camp booties, you do not need more cutlery than a light cup, bowl, and spoon, you do not need a special pad for sitting at dinner, you can use your sleeping pad etc..  With each item ask yourself if you "need" this and if your answer is "well, it would be NICE to have this," then it is likely extra.  Extra stuff adds up to weigh a lot and if you would rather have the stuff than the summit, fine, but if not then leave it behind.  I do encourage people to bring a ipod and a small book or some cards as you need a certain amount of distraction when stuck in your tent, but keep it really simple and light.  Other common extras include: Heavy video cameras, GoPros, most toiletries, pack covers, etc. 

• Buy lightweight gear, focusing on getting the most bang for your buck:  My 75L pack weighs 3.5 lbs empty vs. 7-8 lbs. for the average pack, I take a -20F down bag instead of a -40F down bag, I use an LED headlamp, my Gore-tex layers are very light, I avoid the huge parka and instead combine several down and synthetic insulation layers, etc.  I also carry 2 short pads and place my legs on my empty pack each night.  It all adds up to a kit that weighs 10-12 lbs less than my average customers gear.  Drop 20 lbs of body weight, drop 10 lbs. from your pack, and suddenly you are leaving camp each day with 30 lbs. less overall each day....you get the picture.

Tip #9: Know the summit day is much harder than other days of the trip:  If you are climbing Denali, the first day out of basecamp is tough, so is the second day.  The move on Denali from 14K to 17K is a hard day.  As a result the summit day on Denali is usually just another hard day in a string of hard days and people are mentally ready for it.  Aconcagua, on the other hand, plays out like a challenging trek with a Denali summit day tossed on at the end.  The days leading up to summit day are a lot easier than the summit day.  For some this is no big deal, but for people that find the lead up to the summit challenging, the summit day often destroys them.  The summit day is physically harder and almost always colder and windier than other days.  For this reason I often advise people to climb Denali first and then Aconcagua second.

Tip #10: It is just a mountain:  Ever try to hit a golf ball or ski a steep ski run when you are stressed out versus relaxed?  Go into Aconcagua knowing that your summit is not going to change the history of climbing, and that when push comes to shove you are those close to you are really the only ones who care about your experience.  Get hurt or killed and you will have a big impact on the world around you.  If you are relaxed, happy, and not too attached to getting into "summit or plummet" mode and you will oddly have a much better chance of summiting.  There is no worse fate than being in the mountains with someone who hates climbing and is simply there to tick off the top.  Enjoy the ride, get as high as you can, realize that it is only important to you personally, and be kind to others and you will more than likely get lucky.

Looking for an Aconcagua Guide?: We run a few climbs to Aconcagua each season.  If you are looking for guide's we would be happy to discuss possibilities with you.  If we can help with advice as you plan your trip, let us know.  In addition to running the Northwest Mountain School we have also worked for International Mountain Guides, Alpine Ascents, and Rainier Mountaineering, so we have a pretty solid understanding of the scene and the differences between different guide services.  Here are details on the Northwest Mountain School's Aconcagua Climbs.  ~John & Olivia Race, IFMGA Guides